Continuous, positive air pressure.
Not all parts have to be washed as frequently as others. I only clean the hose
and humidifier every few weeks whereas I clean the pillows that press against
my face daily, i.e.: I never start a night on an unwashed pillow. (I collect the
pillows, which will last for nearly ever if taken care of, and wash them once a
week or so in order to have a clean "pile" of them for the coming week.)
Mostly, I just wanted to turn mine up. Its default behavior, taking 4 minutes to
ramp up to full pressure, was limiting when I was experiencing the respiratory
distress due to a cold, flu, bronchitis, etc., like sucking air through a soda
Caution: this is ordinarily set by a medical technician based on a neurologist's
prescription. Your mileage using these instructions may vary.
This is only "View Settings" unless it's the very first time getting into
"Settings" immediately after turning on the machine. Here's how:
First, some terminology. See the image at upper right. If you click it, you
can see it bigger. I'll be using their terminology for convenience.
I found, for around $60, this ozonator that runs through the air passages of my
machine. I don't care to immerse my CPAP fully in some big, expensive machine
to clean it. This works fine. I clean the bits that don't get ozonated air
running through them by soap and water as I always have.
SolidCLEANER Premium Bundle Include Travel Bag
4.6 x 2.6 x 1.65 inches; 1.1 Pounds
It is cordless, holds enough charge for maybe 10 shots. It runs for about 20
minutes, you can smell the ozone, and then for 10 minutes more without ozone to
chase out the ozone smell. There is a residual smell for a few minutes anyway
when I use my CPAP the first time after.
I usually run this three times every Sunday.
Last I checked, Amazon was no longer selling or had sold out. Too bad. I
recommend this product for its price, ease of use and apparent effectiveness.
Note: ozonators contain a consumable that must be replaced (eventually). So, I
will one day need to replace this.
With my S8, I always got this smell of burning plastic whenever my humidifier
reservoir ran low. Fill it back up and the smell went away.
Not so much with the S9, but, because it doesn't hold enough water for more
than one night, I always fill every night. (I live in the Rocky Mountains where
the ambient humidity, especially in winter, is around minus 100%. This causes
my sinuses to bleed, sometimes profusely, so a CPAP with humidifier is a boon
not only to sleep, but to better sinusal health!)
However, last night, I did get the burning plastic smell from my S9. Of course,
the reservoir was the first thing I checked and, of course, that failed to be
As the S9 is particularly modular, I began detaching the components. First, I
ran it without water (still got the smell—duh), then without the
humidifier, just the respirator component (still smelled).
Finally, I replaced the hose with a little-used, poorer grade one and the smell
was gone. I didn't try this first because the state of hoses is more of a
hygiene problem than a stinking car motor thing. Reassmbling each component,
the smell was still gone. So I took the (heating) hose and ran soap and water
through it. A small piece of orange plastic came out and went down the drain.
When I reinstalled the heated hose and tried it out, there was no longer any
smell and I slept with no smell starting.
I have drawn no conclusion other than that I was lucky (I do clean my hose
periodically and I do have a back-up hose still in its package).
My ResMed S8 has been a total trooper, but it's beginning to be difficult to
operate. I got it no fewer than 13 years ago.
It doesn't offer automatic on or off (a convenience I didn't know existed until
I got my S9 5 years later).
And it has developed the annoying characteristic of running for two or three
minutes when I turn it on only to shut off for a few seconds, then start up on
its own again. (This is annoying because I'm "suffocating" for a few seconds
during this time. It's like waiting for the other shoe to drop.)
The solution I have adopted to solve this second annoyance is to turn the
machine off by unplugging it (or switching it off by a power strip). You might
object to this thinking about the recording of hours slept and other data on
the chip, but my attitude is that a CPAP helps me sleep—performing as a
guinea pig for my neurologist's pleasure is a secondary luxury I don't care
Lately, however, I have begun to have trouble with my S8 should I need to stop
it, then start using the buttons intended for that function. Read on...
When you have to push a long time, multiple times over and over again to get
your S8 to turn off or turn on, what's happening is that the start/stop button
contacts have aged, glazed over or otherwise are not making contact any more.
Behind (underneath) the buttons are two or three contact points, the little
black dots you see in this image.
You will need to clean these dots. A long
CPAP forum discusses various ways including
I used the second method with ease and success but, let's explore what all of
These contact points short (make contact across) a printed-circuit conductor,
two copper traces on the circuit board (there's a close-up of these for the
start/stop button below). Each button has two or three contact points that
actuate several functions (by one, same button).
This is the close-up mentioned above. I don't believe these ever need to be
touched; it's the black, carbon-impregnated silicon dots (see above) that need
Accessing the button mechanisms isn't as hard you might think and there are no
dangers (like explosing springs to lose or are hard to get back into place,
etc.). All you have to do is use a small, flat-blade screwdriver by which you
carefully pry the blue-plastic faceplate off of the S8 starting along the
top edge, the edge that's almost covered by the sling at the top of the machine.
Once you disengage it, it will lift easily off the machine usually carrying the
rubber button assembly (one piece for all buttons) with it. This assembly
removes easily and contains the little contact dots that you need to clean.
A T-10 Torx bit will take out every single screw in a ResMed S9 CPAP machine.
Use a long handle because one of the screws is down a deep well too narrow for
the shaft of a bit-driver to fit in. The only true way to clean a S9 and get
rid of nasty smell residue like stale smoke is to take it completely apart,
then thoroughly soak, wash, rince and dry the soiled foam padding blocks and
This model is by far more difficult to disassemble (than the S10). I took one
completely apart, which was tedious, and had intended to reassemble it, but got
the S10 below and so was far less motivated. Besides, I took it apart to clean
the stench out and I found a lot of foam parts directly exposed to the airways.
These foam parts, soaked and squished over and over again, were not losing
their stench anyway.
So, I gave up and, unless replacement foam pieces can be obtained, I believe
that attempts to clean are misguided, will ultimately be unsatisfactory and a
waste of time.
Also, S9 machines "give up the ghost," with confusing messages about leaky
masks, tubing, etc. that turn out not to be true and even purchases of
new masks, cushions/pillows, tubing, connectors, etc. will not remedy the
situation. Thus, the ResMed S9 is built to become obsolescent.
The ResMed S10 is very easy to disassemble and rebuild, doesn't involve foam
parts that are in the airway nor cannot be cleaned. It appears that ResMed
engineers and designers screwed up and built a great machine (even better than
the S8). So far, mine hasn't crapped out and forced me to purchase a new one.
I set out to clean a ResMed S10. It wasn't successful, but I succeeded in
disassembling, cleaning and reassembling it without breakage or even
deteriorating it. Click on any snapshot to see it bigger.
All in all, the disassembly and reassembly was successful. However, not being
able to clean inside the fan means that if an S10 stinks from cigarette smoke
or some other environmental condition (smells inside a care facility, etc.),
your trouble may be unrewarded.
Having "nothing to lose," I spun the impeller with an air compressor jet while
squirting Febreze into it. This resulted in improving the odor (no tobacco
smoke in my case), but after a few hours of using it,
If it were possible to purchase a new motor/impeller assembly for a reasonable
price (I once saw one listed at nearly $600, but out of stock anyway),
reconditioning a ResMed S10 to full, new status would be easily done inside
of 60-90 minutes effort even the first time you had to do it.
If "brand new" is an absolute requirement, your only recourse is pretty much
a new purchase.