Tommy does pre-hung doors (if video still around).
Note: When marking from bottom of shortest jam, allow
7⁄16 for tile if floor unfinished. When the door is in
place, these marks on door jam edge and wall opening will line up. There should
ample and even crooked space at the top under the header; this will be corrected
(hidden) by casing.
* If the opening slants out of plumb, nothing can be done: just follow it matching jam
with studs and sheetrock thickness. The door cannot be used to correct that in the way it can
across the other axis.
Typically, you will not mount the outside drawer slide to the face of the
cabinet, but on a shim just behind it. And on another shim at the back of
the drawer cabinet. The shims might be vertically mounted for attaching
drawers up and down in the cabinet.
The mounting strip shown in the video below is simply stretched between
behind the face and a cross brace at the back of the new cabinet under
construction in the video. It's an easy system. Which system you choose\
will depend on your cabinet.
Note: the video show using Kreg pocket-hole screws and specialized clamps.
Thought this not is not meant to be commercial, I have Kerg pocket-hole
equipement and it makes this kind of work almost child's play. I'm in my Kreg
pocket-hole drilling jig, $125 and two corner clamps, $40 each. I also have two
Kreg drawer-slide jigs and clamps, $80. These tools are worth it.